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Article
Open AccessNonlinear wave evolution with data-driven breaking
Wave breaking is the main mechanism that dissipates energy input into ocean waves by wind and transferred across the spectrum by nonlinearity. It determines the properties of a sea state and plays a crucial ro...
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Article
Open AccessModulation Instability and Phase-Shifted Fermi-Pasta-Ulam Recurrence
Instabilities are common phenomena frequently observed in nature, sometimes leading to unexpected catastrophes and disasters in seemingly normal conditions. One prominent form of instability in a distributed s...