Log in

Amplification of the storm surges in shallow waters of the Pertuis Charentais (Bay of Biscay, France)

  • Published:
Ocean Dynamics Aims and scope Submit manuscript

Abstract

The Pertuis Charentais are shallow coastal embayments formed by the islands of Oleron and Re in the north-eastern Bay of Biscay. The low-lying coasts of the Pertuis Charentais are susceptible to extensive flooding caused by the storm surges generated in the North Atlantic. Numerical modelling of the 24 October 1999 surge event is performed in the present study in order to elucidate the impact of the wind-wave-tide-surge interactions on the surge propagation in the Pertuis Charentais. A 2D numerical model is constructed to simulate the wave and tide-surge propagation on a high-resolution finite-element grid by using the TELEMAC and TOMAWAC software. The effect of the wave-induced enhancement on the sea surface drag and on the bottom friction is evaluated by using the models of Janssen (1991) and Christoffersen and Jonsson (1985), respectively. The radiation stress is estimated by employing the approach of Longuet-Higgins and Stewart (1964). It is demonstrated that the peak surge in the night on 23–24 October has been amplified inside the Pertuis Charentais by about 20 cm due to the wind-wave interactions with the tide-surge currents. These interactions are strongest at the entrance to the Pertuis Charentais where the sea surface drag coefficient is significantly increased by the wind-wave coupling. The effect of the wave-tide-surge interactions is large enough to be included in the flood forecasting systems of this region.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this article

Subscribe and save

Springer+ Basic
EUR 32.99 /Month
  • Get 10 units per month
  • Download Article/Chapter or Ebook
  • 1 Unit = 1 Article or 1 Chapter
  • Cancel anytime
Subscribe now

Buy Now

Price excludes VAT (USA)
Tax calculation will be finalised during checkout.

Instant access to the full article PDF.

Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
Fig. 6
Fig. 7
Fig. 8
Fig. 9
Fig. 10
Fig. 11
Fig. 12
Fig. 13

Similar content being viewed by others

References

  • Benoit M (2003) Logiciel TOMAWAC de modélisation des états de mer en éléments finis. Notice théorique de la version 5.2. Note technique EDF R&D LNH HP-72/02/065/A

  • Benoit M, Marcos F, Becq F (1996) Development of a third generation shallow water wave model with unstructured spatial meshing. In: Proc. 25th Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng. (ICCE'1996), 2–6 Septembre 1996, Orlando (Florida, USA), pp 465–478

  • Benoit M, Marcos F, Janin JM (1997) Interactions atmosphère/houle/marée/surcotes appliquées à la simulation des tempêtes en mer. In: Proc. Symp. Saint-Venant “Analyse Multiéchelle et systèmes physiques couplés”, 28–29 August 1997, Paris (France), pp 211–218 (in French)

  • Bernier NB, Thompson KR (2007) Tide-surge interaction off the east coast of Canda and northeastern United States. J Geophys Res v112, C06008. doi:10.1029/2006JC003793

  • Bowden KF, Krauel DP, Lewis RE (1974) Some features of turbulent diffusion from a continuous source at sea. Adv Geophys 18A:315–329

    Google Scholar 

  • Brown J, Wolf J (2009) Coupled wave and surge modeling for the eastern Irish Sea and implications for model wind-stress. Cont Shelf Res 29:1329–1342

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Carretero Albiach JC, Álvarez Fanjul E, Gómez Lahoz M, Pérez Gómez B, Rodríguez Sánchez-Arevalo I (2000) Ocean forecasting in narrow shelf seas: application to the Spanish coasts. Coastal Eng 41:269–293

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Christoffersen JB, Jonsson IG (1985) Bed friction and dissipation in a combined current and wave motion. Ocean Eng 12(5):387–423

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Davies AM, Lawrence J (1995) Modelling the effect of wave–current interaction on the three-dimensional wind-driven circulation of the Eastern Irish Sea. J Phys Oceanogr 25:29–45

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Ezer T, Mellor GL (2000) Sensitivity studies with the North Atlantic sigma coordinate Princeton Ocean Model. Dyn Atmos Ocean 32(3/4):185–208

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Flather RA (2000) Existing operational oceanography. Coastal Eng 41:13–40

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Friedrichs CT, Madsen OS (1992) Nonlinear diffusion of the tidal signal in frictionally dominated embayments. J Geophys Res 97(C4):5637–5650

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Heaps NS (1965) Storm surges on a continental shelf. Philos Trans R Soc London Ser A 257:351–383

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Hervouet J-M (2007) Hydrodynamics of free surface flows, modelling with the finite element method. Wiley, Hoboken. ISBN 978-0-470-03558

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Hervouet JM, Van Haren L (1994) Système de modélisation TELEMAC: TELEMAC-2D note de principe. LNHE de l’EDF (in French)

  • Idier D, Pedreros R, Oliveros C, Sottolichio A, Choppin L, Bertin X (2006) Contributions respectives des courants et de la houle dans la mobilite sedimantaire d'une plate-forme interne estuarienne. Exemple: le seuil interinsulaire, au large du Pertuis d'Antioche, France, Comptes Rendus. Geoscience 338:718–726

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Janssen PAEM (1991) Quasi-linear theory of wind–wave generation applied to wave forecasting. J Phys Oceanogr 19:745–754

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Jones JE, Davies AM (1998) Storm surge computations for the Irish Sea using a three-dimensional numerical model including wave–current interaction. Cont Shelf Res 18:201–251

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • JONSWAP Group (1973) Measurements of wind-wave growth and swell decay during the Joint North Sea Wave Project. Dtsch Hydrogr Z A8:95

    Google Scholar 

  • Le Blond PH (1978) On tidal propagation in shallow rivers. J Geophys Res 83:4717–4721

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Le Roy R, Simon B (2003) Réalisation et validation d’un modèle de marée en Manche et dans le Golfe de Gascogne. SHOM Rapport d’étude no. 002/03

  • Longuet-Higgins MS, Stewart RW (1964) Radiation stresses in water waves; a physical discussion, with application. Deep-Sea Res 11:526–562

    Google Scholar 

  • Luettich RA Jr., Westerink JJ, Scheffner NW (1992) ADCIRC: an advanced three-dimensional circulation model for shelves, coasts, and estuaries. Technical Report DRP-92-6, US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg

  • Mastenbroek C, Burgers G, Janssen PAEM (1993) The dynamical coupling of a wave model and a storm surge model through the atmospheric boundary layer. J Phys Oceanogr 23:1856–1866

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Nicolle A (2006) Modélisation des marées et des surcotes dans les Pertuis Charentais (Golfe de Gascogne), Ph.D. thesis, Université de La Rochelle, 307 pp

  • Nicolle A, Karpytchev M (2007) Evidence for spatially variable friction from tidal amplification and asymmetry in the Pertuis Breton (France). Cont Shelf Res 27:2346–2356

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Parker B (1984) Frictional effects on the tidal dynamics of a shallow estuary. Ph.D. Thesis, John Opkins University, Baltimore, 292 pp

  • Proudman J (1953) Dynamical oceanography. Methuen, London 409 pp

    Google Scholar 

  • Smith SD, Banke EG (1975) Variation of the sea surface drag coefficient with wind speed. Q J R Meteor Soc 101:665–673

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Williams JA, Flather RA (2000) Interfacing the operational storm surge model to a new mesoscale atmospheric model. POL Internal Document, No. 127, Proudman OceanographicLab., Liverpool, 18 pp

  • Wolf J, Hubbert KP, Flather RA (1988) A feasible study for the development of a joint surge and wave model. Proudman Oceanographic Laboratory, Rep. N1

  • Wolf J (2009) Coastal flooding—impacts of coupled wave–surge–tide models. Natural Hazards v.9:241–260

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • **e L, Pietrafesa LJ, Wu K (2003) A numerical study of wave–current interaction through surface and bottom stresses: coastal ocean response to Hurricane Fran of 1996. J Geophys Res 108(2):3049

    Article  Google Scholar 

Download references

Acknowledgements

The authors acknowledge the anonymous reviewers for the helpful and constructive comments. M.K. thanks J. Wolf for insightful comments regarding results of this study. The authors thank L. Pineau-Guillou for supplying the observations at Chapus. This work was partially supported by Conseil General de Charente-Maritime (Ph.D. Fellowship to A.N.) and by the National Research Agency project ANR VASIREMI.

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Mikhail Karpytchev.

Additional information

Responsible Editor: Phil Dyke

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

About this article

Cite this article

Nicolle, A., Karpytchev, M. & Benoit, M. Amplification of the storm surges in shallow waters of the Pertuis Charentais (Bay of Biscay, France). Ocean Dynamics 59, 921–935 (2009). https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-009-0219-0

Download citation

  • Received:

  • Accepted:

  • Published:

  • Issue Date:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-009-0219-0

Keywords

Navigation