Abstract
While hydrodynamic processes respond instantaneously to morphological change, morphological change requires the redistribution of sediment. As sediment takes a finite time to move, there is a lag in the morphological response to hydrodynamic forcing. Sediment can therefore be considered to be a time-dependent coupling mechanism. Since the boundary conditions of hydrodynamic forcing change regularly this may mean that the beach never attains equilibrium. Morphodynamic processes exhibit positive and negative feedbacks nonlinearities and threshold behavior. The present study deals with beach morphodynamics using Mopla module of SMC which is a numerical system called Coastal Modeling System ( SMC) is a part of the Spanish Beach Nourishment Manual (SBM). Mopla module of SMC further incorporated with wave propagation model (Karkby and Dalrym model), current model (Navier and Slokes equation) and the sediment model (Bailard and Soulsby model). Three study points (Kirtania, Choumukh and Rasalpur) have been chosen for beach morphodynamics using this wave, current and sediment model at the Balasore coast, Odish, India. The results shows that the significant wave height is 0.62–1.20 m in Kirtaniya, 0.00–0.90 m in Choumukh and 0.10–0.85 m in Rasalpur. The present study also reveals the potential transport of sediment at near shore region which is 0.25–0.1 m3/h/ml at Kirtaniya sector, 0.01–0.04 m3/h/ml at Choumukh and 0.015–0.06 m3/h/ml at Rasalpur sector. The height of sediment of erosion and accretion is bounded between −0.05 and 0.02 m at Kirtaniya, −0.01 and 0.001 m at Choumukh and −0.02 and 0.01 m at Rasalpur sector after the 48 h duration of model calibration. The area of erosion and accretion can also be presented at the each point of study. So one can easily estimate the volume of sediment mobilization by measuring the area under erosion and accretion respectively in a particular beach and also can take the management measures for that particular coastal area.
This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
References
Bernabeu, A., Medina, R., Vidal, C., & Munoz-Perez, J. J. (2001). Estudio morfologico del perfil de playa: Modelo de perfil de equilibrio en dos tramos. Rev. Soc. Geil. Espana, 14(3–4), 227–236.3.
Bird, E. C. F. (1985). Coastline changes: A global review. Chichester, U.K.: Wiley.
Bodge, K. R, Olson, E. J, & Creed, C. G. (1993). Performance of beach nourishment at Hilton Head Island, S.C. Beach Nourishment Engineering and Management Considerations. Proc. Co. Zone ’93. (pp 16–30). New Orleans: ASCE.
Bruun, P. (1954). Coast erosion and the development of beach profiles. Beach Erosion Board Technical Memo No. 44. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.
Camenen, B, & Larson, M. (2007). A suspended load sediment transport formula for the nearshore. Journal of Coastal Research.
Chen, S. X., & Liu, J. S. (1997). Statistical applications of the poisson- binomial and conditional bernoulli distributions. Statistica Sinica, 7, 875–892.
Chen, X. H., Dempster, A. P., & Liu, J. S. (1994). Weighted finite population sampling to maximize entropy. Biometrika, 81, 457–469.
Coastal engineering research centre (CERC). (2003).
Cooker, M. J., Peregrine, D. H., Videal, C., & Dold, J. W. (1990). The interaction between a solitary wave and a submerged semicircular cylinder. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 215, 1–22.
De Vriend, H. J., Copabianco, M., Chesher, T., de Swart, H. D., Latteux, B., & Stive, M. J. F. (1993). Approaches to long-term modelling of coastal morphology: A review. Coastal Engineering, 21, 225–269.
Dean, R. G. (1977). Equilibrium beach profiles, U.S. Atlantic and Gulf Coasts. Technical Report No. 12. U. Newark, Delaware.
Fredsoe, J., & Deigaard, R. (1992). Mechanics of coastal sediment transport: Advanced series on ocean engineering. Singapore: World Science.
Gomea-Pina, G. (1995). Analisis de perfiles de playa en las fachadas cantabrica y atlantica de la coasta Espanola y su aplicacion a proyectos de regeneracion. MsC. Thesis. University of Cantabria.
González, M., & Medina, R. (1999). Equilibrium shoreline response behind a single offshore breakwater. In Proceedings Coastal Sediments ’99 (pp. 844–859). ASCE.
Hasselmann, K. (1974). On the spectral dissipation of ocean waves due to white cap**. Boundary-Layer Meteorology, 6(1–2), 107–127.
Ho, S. K. (1971). Crenulate shaped bays. Master of Engineering Thesis 346. Bangkok: Asian Institute of Technology.
Hsu, J. R. C, Silveste, R., & **a, Y. M. (1987). New characteristics of equilibrium shaped bays. In Proceedings 25th Coastal Engineering Conference (pp. 3986–3999). ASCE.
Inman, D. L., & Jenkins, S. A. (2002). Model to predict mine migration and related bed form. Annual report submitted to ONR Code 322 MG (Tom Drake), 8 pp., 5 figs. http://www.onr.navy.mil.
Khayyer, A., Gotoh, H., & Shao, S. D. (2008). Corrected incompressible SPH method for accurate water-surface tracking in breaking waves. Coastal Engineering, 55, 236–250.
Komar, P. D. (Ed.). (1983). Beach processes and erosion—an introduction. In Handbook of Coastal Processes and Erosion. p. 30l, Washington: CRC Press.
Koutitas, C. G. (1988). Mathematical models in coastal engineering. London: Pen tech Press.
Larson, J., Lynch, G., Games, D., & Seubert, P. (1999). Alterations in synaptic transmission and long-term potentiation in hippocampal slices from young and aged PDAPP mice. Brain Research, 840, 23–35.
Lippmann, T. C., & Holman, R. A. (1991). Phase speed and angle of breaking waves measured with video techniques. Coastal Sediments ’91, Vol. 1, pp. 542–556.
Liu, P. L. F., & Tsay, T. K. (1983). On weak reflection of water waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 131, 59–71.
Madsen, J. D., Sutherland, J. W., Bloomfield, J. A., Eichler, L. W., & Boylen, C. W. (1991). The decline of native vegetation under dense Eurasian water milfoil canopies. Journal of Aquatic Plant Management, 29, 94–99.
Medina, R., Bernabeu, A. M., Vidal, C., & Gonzalez, M. (2000). Relationships between beach morphodynamics and equilibrium profiles. In Proceedings of the 27th International Coastal Engineering Conference (pp. 2589–2601). ASCE.
Millot, C., & Crepon, M. (1981). Inertial oscillations on the continental shelf of the Gulf of Lions-Observations and theory. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 11(5): 639–657.
Mooers, C. N. (1975). Several effects of a baroclinic current on the cross stream propagation of inertial-internal waves. Geophysical and Astrophysical Fluid Dynamics, 6, 245–275.
Nielsen, P. (1992). Coastal bottom boundary layers and sediment transport: Advanced series on ocean engineering. Singapore: World Scientific Publication.
Rattanapitikon, W., & Shibayama, T. (2006). Breaking wave formulas for breaking depth and orbital to phase velocity ratio. Coastal Engineering, 42, 389–406.
Rijn, L. C. (1988). Handbook on sediment transport by currents and waves. Delft, The Netherlands: Delft Hydraulics.
Seymour, R.J. (1996). Wave climate variability in Southern California. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, ASCE, 122(4) 182–186.
Silvester, R., & Hsu, J. R. C. (1993). Coastal stabilization: Innovative concepts. Englewood Cliffs, N.J.: Prentice-Hall.
Silvester, R., & Hsu, J. R. C. (1997). Coastal Stabilization. Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering. Vol. 14. World Scientific Publishing: Singapore.
Sleath, J. F. A. (1984). Sea Bed Mechanics. New York: Wiley.
Suhayda, J. N., & Pettigrew, N. R. (1977). Observations of wave height and wave celerity in the surf zone. Journal of Geophysical Research, 82(9), 1419–1424.
Tsai, C. P., Chen, H. B., Hwung, H. H., & Huang, M. J. (2005). Examination of emperical formulas for wave shoaling and breaking on steep slopes. Ocean Engineering, 32, 469–483.
Vinje, T., & Brevig, P. (1980). Numerical simulation of breaking waves. Finite Elements in Water Resources, 2, 196–210.
Wang, H. (1975). Modelling an ocean pond. A two-dimensional finite element hydrodynamic model of Ninigret Pond, Charlestown, Rhode Island. University of Rhode Island/Marine Technical Report 40.
**ng, J., & Davies, A. M. (2002). Processes influencing the non-linear interaction between inertial oscillations, near inertial internal waves and internal tides. Geophysical Research Letters, 29(5): 1067. doi:10.1029/2001GL014199.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2016 The Author(s)
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Barman, N.K., Chatterjee, S., Paul, A.K. (2016). Beach Morphodynamics in Subarnarekha Delta Plain. In: Coastal Morphodynamics. SpringerBriefs in Geography. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-33575-9_5
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-33575-9_5
Published:
Publisher Name: Springer, Cham
Print ISBN: 978-3-319-33574-2
Online ISBN: 978-3-319-33575-9
eBook Packages: Earth and Environmental ScienceEarth and Environmental Science (R0)