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Chapter and Conference Paper
Dispersive Effects During Long Wave Run-up on a Plane Beach
Dispersive effects during long wave run-up on a plane beach are studied. We take advantage of experimental data collection of different wave types (single pulses, sinusoidal waves, bi-harmonic waves, and frequ...
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Chapter
Water waves generated by a moving bottom
Waves at the surface of a liquid can be generated by various mechanisms: wind blowing on the free surface, wavemaker, moving disturbance on the bottom or the surface, or even inside the liquid, fall of an obje...